Located in the region of Emilia-Romagna, Parma, the City of Gastronomy, is well known for its culinary “stars”: Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma…but there is much more to enjoy in this sophisticated city…
♦ Part One: A Taste of Parma (Behind the Scenes!) ♦
Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and Aceto Balsamico
Thanks to a a personal referral from my dear friend and travel partner Emanuela with Beautiful Liguria, I enjoyed a truly special day meeting small producers, enjoying tasting (delicious!) and learning more about their passion and livelihood!
Our small group was introduced to family-owned and family-run producers in the outlying villages. Dedicated and very hard working, they are not only committed to the highest (and very strict) standards of production established by their respective consortium but they are proud of and passionate about the quality of their products – only the very best will do!
We learned, sampled and gained a deeper appreciation for their commitment to and pride in the quality of their products.
Here’s a “taste” of what we experienced!
♦ Parmigiano Reggiano, the “King of Cheeses”
Making Parmigiano Reggiano requires 24/7 dedication! Only cheese produced in the provinces Parma and Reggio Emilia (and a very few restricted areas) are legally allowed to be called Parmigiano.
Using the same process for over 800 years and the same three ingredients: raw cow’s milk, rennet, and salt…and time!
We were graciously welcomed by Paolo and Paola, a dedicated and hard working husband and wife team! Marika explained each stage of aging and production…
Making Parmigiano Reggiano is hard work and a very precise and lengthy process.
We all loved sampling the various “ages”, up to 60 months! What a privilege to visit, learn, taste, and bring some home!
♦ Prosciutto di Parma
Salumificio Conti is another family owned/managed producer – in fact, the owner is a woman. Prosciutto di Parma is all natural and protected by a consortium established in 1963. “100% Natural” is defined as: the only ingredients are Italian pork legs, sea salt, air and time (aging is a minimum of 12 months up to 3 years)! Absolutely NO nitrates or additives are allowed.
Recently celebrating over 50 years of producing high quality Prosciutto di Parma, we toured their facility and learned about the meticulous steps of curing, preserving, and numerous inspections before this most delicious delicacy is on your plate!
♦ Visiting an Acetaia…
Marco and Maria’s passion is traditional aceto balsamico – carrying on the thousand year-old tradition, their farm is located near Reggio Emilia.
Their elegant acetaia speaks to the personal attention, high quality and years of dedication required to produce the best! Although Modena is famous for its balsamic, they are very proud to produce high quality balsamico in their handsome acetaia.
Grapes from their own vineyard, the delicate process of slow cooking and aging in their own loft, some up to 80 years, requires patience and dedication.
♦ Part Two – Parma’s Art! A Feast for the Eyes! ♦
Inspired by webinars by art historian Rocky Ruggiero, I was looking forward to visiting the major museums/masterworks and art treasures he featured in his talks – most notably those of Correggio.
My “list” included the Cathedral and Baptistery in Piazza Duomo, the Camera di San Paolo, the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, and, of course, the monumental complex of Pilotta Palace with its Farnese Theatre. Library and National Gallery.
All are very accessible and found within the historical center of Parma. However, I was glad that I allowed enough time to split my visit since it can easily be sensory overload to take in and assimilate so much exquisite art and beauty…
♦ Correggio!
The splendid masterworks of Antonio Allegri, known as Correggio (1489-1534), in particular his sublime frescoes with his signature technique of perspective which created the illusion of the figures, often playful putti, literally ascending and flying up into the air…all are incredible to behold!
Camera di San Paolo: The “camera” is a room in the ancient convent of San Paolo, with frescoes by Correggio for the Abbess Giovanna Piacenza.
The visit also includes the room with frescoes by Araldi, including the Last Supper.
”Correggio’s first commission was to decorate the dining hall of a particularly enlightened, and perhaps somewhat libertine, Benedictine abbess named Giovanna Piacenza. Known as the Camera di San Paolo, the ceiling of the room is decorated with a bamboo-like pergola and playful putti poking their heads through illusionistic apertures. Above the fireplace is a large fresco of the virgin goddess Diana; and just below, a Latin inscription that warn presumably male visitors) ‘Do not stick your poker in the fire’”!
The Duomo: The 12th century Duomo is absolutely stupendous… A splendid example of Romanesque architecture and embellished by the Correggio dome, it literally leaves you speechless…
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista: Worthy of a visit for the dome, also with frescoes by Correggio. Next to the church, visit the Monastery of San Giovanni with its cloisters and the 16th century monumental library of San Giovanni.
♦ The Battistero
The unique multi-tiered baptistery is one of the icons of Italian Romanesque architecture and where you can enjoy and admire the sculptures of Antelami.
♦ Pilotta Palace
To say it is monumental is no exaggeration! I won’t even attempt to “summarize” the history, much less the scope of the Pilotta collections here…let me just say, you just have to see and experience it to believe it!
The Pilotta complex includes:
National Gallery: started by the Duke of Parma and later enriched by the acquisitions of Maria Louise of Austria. Works from the 13th to the 19th century including Correggio, Parmigianino, Bronzino, Tintoretto, Carracci, Botticelli, Canaletto, Canova, and even a drawing attributed to Leonardo da Vinci.
The extensive collection of the National Gallery is extremely well thought out and curated. Thoughtfully exhibited, and since it was not crowded, I was able to take my time and appreciate the rich collection acquired over many decades and dynasties. Definitely a worthwhile destination for an art lover!
Farnese Theatre: Built between 1618 and 1619, this theatre is indescribably spectacular. Photos simply do not do it justice – the fact that it was constructed in such a short period of time and built specifically to honor a visiting Medici (who was ultimately unable to come), is impressive!
Although it fell into disrepair in the 1700’s and was almost destroyed by Allied bombing in WWII, in 1950 it was totally restored and rebuilt using the same materials. And, how wonderful that we can admire its beauty and grandeur today.
The Palatine Library: Established in 1761 by Philip Bourbon, Duke of Parma, the Biblioteca, library is estimated to contain over one million books!
Read more here: ParmaWelcome.it/en
Parma can easily be reached by train from Bologna or from Florence (via a connection in Bologna)!
⇒ If Parma is on your “list” for your next trip to Italy, let me know and we’ll plan your visit!⇐
