♦ Siena – A Rich Legacy
Entering Siena’s old city center is like entering through a portal to another time, a different world…enclosed by its original 14th century walls which encircle a treasure trove of beautiful Gothic buildings and a labyrinth-like network of streets. this medieval town is totally captivating!

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A UNESCO World Heritage Site, you can explore Siena’s 17 districts called contrade (plural for contrada) which were established during the 15th and 16th century and remain an important and integral part of her story and personality to this day! Each contrada has its own boundaries, colors and coat of arms (which are typically animals). And, as you explore, if you look carefully you will see these symbols proudly displayed. (They even have their individual patron saint!)

Since we are here pre-Palio, it is even more festive with banners and Palio memorabilia everywhere! You know exactly which contrada you’re in (designated by banners and special light fixtures) and who belongs to which contrada by the colorful scarves they are wearing!

♦ About the Contrade and Palio Tradition
The Palio takes place twice a year, July 2nd and August 16th, on the spectacular Piazza del Campo. This traditional bareback horse race has taken place, except in times of war and recently during COVID, since the 16th century. These dates never change: the July 2nd Palio is dedicated to the Madonna di Provenzano and the second on August 16th is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Madonna dell’Assunta.

The contrade of Siena are deeply rooted in tradition and customs. Not only a social club, each has its own political/mini-government of officials and a very strict code/guideline for membership and participation. They are a very active community year-round with a definite focus on and dedication to service. The relationships between the 17 contrade is complex and often involves longstanding alliances and enemies! (And these “relationships” definitely spill over into the Palio!)

The 17 contrade include: Aquila (eagle), Bruco (caterpillar), Chiocciola (snail), Civetta (owl), Drago (dragon), Giraffa (giraffe), Istrice (porcupine), Leccorno (unicorn), Lupa (she-wolf), Nicchio (shell), Oca (goose), Onda (dolphin), Pantera (panther), Selva (rhino), Tartuca (tortoise), Torre (tower) and Valdimontone (ram). Colorful banners are proudly displayed and matching scarves are worn by all ages!

Preparations for the customary pageantry are elaborate and aptly described as being about:
“…pride, belonging and faith. They don’t race for a prize but for something much more precious: honor.”
– The Palio in Your Pocket Guide

♦ Pre-Palio Immersion with Dario
For two days my friend, Pamela, and I totally immersed in pre-Palio Siena; the colorful sites and sounds as this picturesque city prepared for the July Palio, her first Palio in two (2) years!

The energy and anticipation after two years of COVID cancellations was palpable and contagious! (Fortunately it was not blistering hot but even that wouldn’t have dampened their spirits!)

Learning more about this beloved historical tradition is, I believe, crucial to understanding why it is so important to the Sienese. What stood out for me is that, for them, this is not just “a horse race”! I hope that, after reading this brief post, that you might agree…

We had the pleasure of spending our second morning here with Dario Castagno. A member of the Bruco (caterpillar) Contrada, he was our host and guide for an immersive and informative morning at the Bruco Contrada member headquarters, Nobel Contrada del Bruco.

Each contrada has its own headquarters which serves as a museum for their contrada as well as a place for members to gather, socialize, dine and meet year round. It is a tight community and it provides an excellent support system for members of all ages.

Dario introduced us to and educated us about the rich legacy, symbolism, and festivities of the Palio. For me, this insightful and compelling presentation evoked a new understanding and appreciation of this beloved Sienese tradition.

What most people see is the dramatic final few minutes of the final horse race… but what most of us never see or know about is the incredible “back story” of the contrade – their legacy, the pageantry, and the camaraderie as well as the friendly “rivalries” and “alliances” between them and all that is involved and leads up to that final climactic race.

Our session with Dario was well timed as we were able to step outside and enjoy one of the traditional processions that each contrada makes through the neighboring contrade. The colorful procession of the Chioccoloa (snail) Contrada included costumed drummers and flag throwers of all ages!

♦ 17 Contrade but Only 10 Will Race
The final 10 participating contrade are chosen by a drawing inside the Town Hall.

Results are announced by the flags of the drawn contrade hung out the window, accompanied by trumpets blaring, of course! Then, all important, each is assigned their horse – the true star of the Palio.

Once the horses are chosen (after ”heats”) they are assigned to each contrada via a drawing. There is definitely a lot of emotion, tension, and anticipation as each horse is assigned to their contrada. Horses are then taken to their respective stables until the jockeys are chosen.

What follows are six horse trial races in the mornings and evenings in the Piazza before the final race. Processions through the streets are accompanied with much singing and excitement. Then jockeys are chosen and hired. Jockeys are not members of the contrada and are typically professionals/mercenaries. Of course, there are those who are more well-known than others.

Then, later that day, each participating contrada parades en masse through the streets with their horse (and the horse’s handler/trainer, of course) to the Campo where they will meet their jockey and participate in the first trial race!

Rhythmic drum rolls, enthusiastic chanting, banners waving, colors on display, the excitement is mounting… And all of these events are followed by traditional dinners in their respective contrade.

♦ More than a Race
We were able to go the Campo one evening to see the horses and jockeys in a “warm up” trial race which in itself was very exciting. These are held daily until the grand finale on July 2nd.

We weren’t there to attend the actual Palio race in person this year but we had regular updates from Dario and were able to watch live on local television. This year’s July Palio was particularly unusual since two horses were withdrawn as unfit to race (minor injuries) and during several false starts two others were disqualified (one of them unfortunately the Bruco horse and jockey as the jockey was thrown and fractured his collarbone). (Update: The horses and jockey are fine!)

Even watching on television was nerve-wracking as the jockeys (remember, they are riding bareback!) attempted to get their horses into position. No small feat!

In the end there were six horses but only five took off and the winner, in a photo finish, was Drago (the Dragon Contrada) with the experienced and previous winning jockey, known as Tittia. The ecstatic Drago crowd was visibly emotional and beyond overjoyed, and much celebration followed as he was carried on shoulders through the streets to the chapel of the Drago Contrada!

There is so much pride and community! Dario had strongly emphasized that it is NOT a show or event held for tourists or to promote tourism but that it is all about the Sienese community; the residents and their contrada communities!

“It’s is not a folkloric show. It’s not a horse race or as commemorative patronal festival. The Palio is the lifeblood that flows through the veins of the Sienese…”
–The Palio in Your Pocket Guide

It was such a privilege to learn more, observe and, even though on the fringes, feel the pride and enthusiasm of  Siena…grazie, Dario and Siena.

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♦ There’s MORE: Two of  Siena’s Gems
There is so much more to see and do in Siena! Although Thursday was our last day there, we weren’t going to leave without visiting her absolutely spectacular and glorious Cathedral and iconic City Hall.

◊ The Majestic Duomo di Siena (Cathedral of Siena)
Although I had been here several times before, like many other historical sites, one can never quite take it all in and, for me, being able to revisit several times is a special opportunity and gift.

It’s impossible to express in words and even photos, the scale and grandeur of this magnificent Cathedral!

A monumental example of Gothic architecture, started in the 12th century and taking over 200 years to complete, the Cathedral’s distinctive striped black and white marble columns in Siena’s colors…

The 56 magnificent marble intarsia/mosaic floors (which took over five centuries), and the superb and absolutely beautiful beyond words masterworks byPisano, Donatello, Bernini, Michelangelo, Raffaello, Ducio, Pinturicchio and more…defy description!

All of this and the acclaimed Piccolomini Library featuring the splendid fresco cycle by Pinturicchio illustrating ten episodes from the life of Pope Pius II and showcasing a beautiful collection of illuminated manuscripts.

Behold! Beauty that evokes a reverential hush…truly mozzafiato!

◊ The Iconic Palazzo Comunale or Palazzo Publico (Siena City Hall)
Undoubtedly one of the most recognizable symbols of Siena is her Palazzo Comunale or City Hall. Situated on the main square of Siena, Piazza del Campo, with the Torre del Mangia alongside (rising 87 meters, making it the third tallest historic tower in Italy), one cannot help but be impressed!

Regardless of how you enter the Piazza, from any side street the City Hall immediately demands your attention! Proud and regal it was and remains the focus of Siena’s proud history and glory days spanning over the centuries.

Entering the courtyard, Cortile del Podesta, you are stepping into 13th Century seat of the Republic of Siena’s government (remember, major cities in Italy were powerful and independent city-states before they were regions and part of the Republic of Italy!). To this day it houses the offices of the Major, Town Council and some State Rooms (similar in function to Palazzo Vecchio in Florence).

Exploring the rooms of the Civic Museum on the first floor, we are met by exquisite frescoes!

In the largest room, Sala dei Mappamondo (Hall of the Globe), is the famous fresco of a knight on a horse with two fortifications that captures my imagination.

And directly across from him is Simone Martini’s acclaimed Madonna and Child surrounded by angels and saints. One has to sit and pause to take it all in…

I especially wanted to see the famous fresco in the Sala dei Nove (room of nine), where the governing body met; “Allegoria ed effetti del buono e del Cattivo Governo” (“Allegory and effects of Good and Bad Government”) by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, but it is being renovated. (Definitely another reason to revisit Siena!)

This ends our visit but it’s certainly not the end of my return visits to Siena!

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If you would like to learn more (and there is SO much more to learn) about the tradition of the Palio and the sites and history of Siena, click below:

The Palio: https://www.ilpalio.org/

About Siena & the Palio/Contrade:
http://www.aboutsiena.com/Palio-races-of-Siena/the-contrades-of-the-palio-of-Siena.html

Dario Castagno: https://dariocastagno.com/

The Works of the Cathedral: https://operaduomo.siena.it/en/

The Civic Center/City Hall:
https://www.terredisiena.it/en/art-and-culture/siena-city-hall/

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